2015 m. kovo 28 d., šeštadienis

A new contact socket for SBT-10 (СБТ-10), SBT10A(СБТ-10А) Geiger-Müller tubes

Original contact sockets for SBT10 SBT10A Geiger-Müller tubes are rather rear and quite expensive.
So I have decided to design one. Printed with PLA filament on a 3D printer and equipped with factory made contactы it appeared to be quite a success:






Fits perfectly and is quite easy to remove (removal though should be done gradually by carefully lifting it around the  perimeter in order not to break the key - it is because here are 11 contacts which hold on well)






When normally soldering the contacts, no melting of PLA occurs:



If you like/need one you can by it instantly by clicking on this PayPal  "Buy Now" button.
The price is 5.99€ + 3,7€ (priority, registered-with tracking number, shipping).



Alternatively, if you need only pins you can buy them  for 3,5€ + 2,87 (priority, registered-with tracking number, shipping) by pressing the below "Buy Now" button.


and print the body of the socket on your own 3D printer yourself.

The .stl file can be downloaded here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5rx0n3uvuwv7khh/SBT10socket.stl?dl=0

If the above design appeared useful, you might wish to show your appreciation by making a donation  by pressing on the below button:





Inside SBT10A(СБТ-10А) Geiger-Müller tube

I have recently got a question if it is possible to remove the carbolite (plastic) body of the SBT10A(СБТ-10А) Geiger-Müller tube to leave only the "bulb".
Got interested myself, as I have seen  si8b tubes reduced in size/weight this way I found one defective SBT10A and cut with a metal hand saw around the perimeter.




Apparently it is possible, but cutting should be very careful. You should avoid pressing the tube because if geometry of the perimeter is changed, the mica window could pop-open and kill the tube.
This is even more possible as the pressure of gasses inside the "bulb" is lower than the one outside.

Also it is important not to penetrate through the perimeter inside in order not to damage the glass appendix of the "bulb" or the wires which come out straight of glass or are point-welded to the exterior of the "bulb" (cathode)

So when you have it cut around the perimeter - first thing is to desolder the cathode wire from the pin 11 (cathode wire is simply soldered inside the pin 11)



Then desolder all other wires from their pins going from topmost (pins 1 and 10) to the bottom-most -pin 6.

However all goos is while it is good - so all risks are to yourself - please note, I have been disassembling the already broken tube ...

If instead you decide not to risk - you might be interested then in this socket for SBT10 here 

2015 m. kovo 14 d., šeštadienis